I actually did not see much on last year's trip to Mongolia. Once in Mörön, I was rather lazy, tried to learn a bit for university, lent Uudraa and her parents a hand one or two times, or watched Sumo in the afternoon. One evening Uudraa and I would go to some free concert - the motto was "Our Future" - in Mörön's stadium, mainly because Mongolian schlager is always nice to listen too. But we got cold early and the music was not as groovy as we had hoped for, so we returned home and then only heard boos and whistles in the distance, from the apparently not-so-amused audience. Some days later we saw a recording of the show at a local TV channel, the problem obviously was that the organizers of the show insisted on interrupting the music shows with speeches by a rather zealous - Uudraa immediatly compared him with Kim Il Sung - Korean missionary. I guess that his words had to be translated into Mongolian did not help, as did saying that Mongolia was so poor because her citizens were no Christians.
Of course we would visit quite a number of Uudraa's relatives, and we also made two-three daytrips to the autumn encampment of Uudraa's grandmother. But there was almost no bigger excursion, as Uudraa did not have the time and I was reluctant to venture out without her.
On the one excursion we did make we were kind of freeloaders, the entourage of Uudraa's aunt. She is some darga (boss) in the aimag's women's association, and in this function she had been invited to join the celebration for the 70th anniversary of Tömörbulag's sum hospital. I think showing us around was actually the main reason for the aunt to go there. Tömörbulag is a sum about 75 km southeast of Mörön in the Bügsiin gol valley, or just across the Erchim nuruu ridge. The road across this ridge is not very difficult, but the last kilometers to the pass are quite steep, and we had had a small accident there three years ago (469 tipped over, no injuries). This time all went rather fine, and Uudraa circled the ovoo on the pass three times and offered some cookies just in case it might help some day.

some photogenic hills in the evening sun
The sum center itself was remarkably tidy. Tömörbulag's specialty is a certain sort of cashmere goats, and apparently this does pay off. The hospital was a two-storey building, with something like 20 rooms (very rough estimate). We were given a room at the end of the upper floor, complete with heaps of sweets and dairy products, a bucket of airag and a bowl of arkhi (the milk variant). The hospital had also ordered vodka bottles with a commemorative label, but I don't remember if we had any in our room at this time. I also don't really remember what we had for diner, probably Buuz, Bansh or Khushuur.
A programme had been organized for this anniversary, and after dinner we went to the local Ulaan Bulan (Mongolian equivalent to the Culture Houses in other formerly pro-Soviet countries). Uudraa's aunt took her place on the stage, together with other present officials and a lama. The place was really full, and we returned to our room in the hospital to get us some stools. The official programme began with a prayer of the lama - the sum mayor explained afterwards that since the celebration was related to health and well-being, they thought this was a good idea - and afterwards the hospital staff were honored, given awards and presents: rice cookers, DVD players and the like. Tömörbulag was not connected to Mongolia's power grid, but apparently the people hoped this would happen soon, or they had strong solar cells. I assume the former though, as the local MP is B. Erdenebat, back then the minister in charge of the power lines. Then, the officials handed out their presents, Uudraa's aunt had brought some decorative picture - just the same picture as the representative of the Democratic Party, whose turn fortunately was after Uudraa's aunt's. One of the hospital staff had apparently been gone over, as afterwards a man from the public took the microphone and complained that this doctor had always done a good job, and just because he is from Dornod is no excuse to ignore him. He got quite a deal of applause.
The cultural part of the programme was carried out by the hospital staff, pupils of the local school, and by a singer who had decided to start his tour across the sums of Hövsgöl just the following day and in Tömörbulag. Afterwards, there was supposed to be a disco, but Uudraa and I decided to first bring the stools back to the hospital - not that they had helped us much, anyway - and we never made it back to the Ulaan Bulan.
Back in our room, Uudraa's aunt had begun to chat and have a drink with some of our hosts - I think we may have brought one or two vodka bottles from Mörön, just in case - and we thought it would be a bit rude not to attend. Gradually, the room filled with ever more people, until there were about twenty-five, including the singer and the representative of the Democratic Party. Thus it was really out of the question to leave, and we just took part in the celebration and enjoyed ourselves as well as we could. From time to time I would go outside, under the excuse of taking a leak, but also to catch some cold fresh air and get my head a bit clearer. The corridor then always looked as if a search party was roaming around, with numbers of flashlights hushing through the darkness. The hospital had two electric circuits, one probably 220V, powered by a diesel (?) generator, and the other one probably 12 or 24V, powered by solar cells. But the diesel generator was now needed for the celebration at the Uulan Bulan, and the solar power stored in the batteries ran low rather fast. The lights would go off for five minutes, then work again for some time. But the intervalls during which they worked got ever shorter, and those during which they did not work ever longer, and in the end we lit candles.
At around three o'clock a.m. I decided to find some place to sleep. I left under the excuse that I would need to go outside once more, and then returned not to our room, but found an unlocked examination room and lay myself on the stretcher. The Democratic representative had actually indicated a desire to discuss some issues with me, but to this I could not pay attention now. I did not even pay attention when Uudraa, fearing I had been lost, started to look for me, and only when they started a systematic search of all rooms did they find me and place me in some other bed.

The next morning, we all had a slight hangover, although having not slept much was probably the bigger problem for Uudraa and me. Uudraa's aunt as honoured guest of course had it harder, but she coped remarkably well. The democrat had forgot his glasses in our room, and she could not hide some Schadenfreude (the paternal part of Uudraa's family is rather pro-MPRP). The celebrations had in fact only begun, there were horse races and a wrestling competition, and for lunch we went up into the mountains and had a picknick. We could have stayed for another night, watch the opening concert of the singer's Hövsgöl tour and maybe make some more acquaintances, but Uudraa's aunt preferred to return to Mörön, and so after we had filled the remaining airag into a canister, and after Uudraa's aunt had had a last row of drinks with the hospital's head nurse, we said goodbye to or hosts and drove back to Mörön.
The father of S. Bayar, the current Prime Minister of Mongolia, apparently hails from Tömörbulag. But back then, Bayar was, if anything, a man of the future, and the hospital's 469 was a present by Erdenebat, as could be read on the car's door.